Tips From Wirenut, GeneH, mark93, and others (posted to the TDR forum).

• Remove Dodge Cummins....etc. plate from valve cover
• Use an air gun to blow all loose material from the top of the cylinder head.
• Remove the high pressure fule line clamps (8mm wrench)
• Remove the #1 valve cover. Note: this provides room to get the fuel lines out of the way while removing the injector body nut. The first three cylinder fuel lines pass between 1 and 2 valve covers.
• Remove the large retainer nuts from the injectors ( 17mm wrench or deep well socket, some have used a 15/16" deepwell socket)
• Remove enough fuel drain bolts and move the manifold out of the way (10 mm wrench).
• Position fuel lines out of the way for each injector as you go (dont be afraid to bend them a little, but not too much!)
• to get each injector out
  • use a set of pliers (vise grips are a handy item) to grab the injector, turn and wiggle it out. Some can be difficult. I had to use some force for this step. The injector will turn some. They have a ball like a ratchet uses to hold a socket. (as you will probably notice on the new injectors)
  • If the injectors are hard to remove, put a nut on top of the injector where the fuel line came off and pry up; they come out easily.
  • I borrowed the injector puller and bore cleaning brush from my local dealer for the weekend(will your dealer loan you tools). The puller made it a snap to get the old injectors out. Number 6 injector had a lot of surface rust on the shaft.
  • I used the Cummins injector puller and all six took about 5 minutes.
• There is a "land" where the copper washer seats and make sure there is no crud on it so the seal will be good. You have to use a light and crawl up to see down NO.'s 5 & 6.
• When replacing the injector lightly oil the body insert it in the hole and rotate the injector until the notch on the side of the injector finds the depression in the head, when it is in position, the injector will not rotate any more.
  • (wouldn't hurt to leave one old one installed fro comparison until several new ones are down the whole way)
• Put some never seeze on the injector body nut and torque the retainer nut to 44 ft-lbs.
• Reinstall the lines on the pump fully (if you disconnect them)
• Finger tighten the high pressure fuel line nuts on the injectors.
• When you reinstall the injector drain manifold get all the little screws to start significantly before the final tightening. They crossthread easily.
• Reinstall all the high pressure fuel line clamps
• Reinstall the fuel drain manifold
• Crank the engine until there is fuel coming out of all injector lines, then tighten the high pressure fuel nut and start the engine. It may miss and run rough for a few moments, then begin running smoothly.

NOTES:

• Don't forget your "Cummins" valve cover badge!
• kept the ends of the injectors covered while the fuel lines were off. Remember to use new fuel drain manifold bolt washers and new dust washers,these fit into the top of the injector body nut.
• if you didn't get new banjo fittings(recommended), make sure not to loose the original ones.

Pretty easy!

Fuel adjustments after installing larger injectors.

#1 Oh yeah: I know they say to turn your fuel back to stock but, I wasn't happy at the stock setting (not enough smoke and power!) so, set it back to stock, then drive it after the installation. You may want to play with some different pump settings. My fuel screw is approximately 1 turn in and diaphram stayed at max. Have fun, hope this will help you and don't toast them tires to fast!

#2 When I installed my injectors I left the pump at the turned up settings (max diaphragm, loose diaphragm spring, AFC screw turned in and full load screw at about stock) for a trip around the block then turned the diaphragm back halfway betweem stock and max (to cut smoke) as the only change. WOW!! Over the last 3 months I have arrived at the following settings for the following reasons:

1) AFC "smoke" screw backed off completely- Plenty of fuel at off idle and low rpms already.

2) Diaphragm turned to max rate position-I greedily wanted all the midrange power I could get.

3) Diaphragm spring very tight (star wheel one turn down from "no threads showing"-I found I had, with the diaphragm at full rate, MUCH more fuel at the low end than was needed but it would clear away very well by 15 psi. I tightened the spring to match boost fuel more proportional to the need for more fuel during midrange run up through the gears. At first I set it at "no threads showing" but there was a "flatness" right in the middle of the RPM band during acceleration, like you had to wait for the engine to catch its breath. A turn down from that setting on the star wheel made the transition from the bascic fuel setting to full power smooth and constant.

4) Full load screw about one turn in from stock-Not liking the idea that there was some available top end power (and midrange as it turned out) that was untapped I turned the screw a FULL TURN in. WOW WOW WOW. Lots of smoke can be made while lugging the engine but it clears to a nice solid stream of dark grey smoke at full power. By driving normal almost no smoke appears, but when you need the power it is all there.

#3 The full load screw is in 1/2 turn from stock. I can see from Wirenut's last post there are a lot of adustments that I havn't tried yet. These Power Wagon Injectors really work. For my installation I borrowed the injector puller and bore cleaning brush from my local dealer for the weekend(will your dealer loan you tools). The puller made it a snap to get the old injectors out. Number 6 injector had a lot of surface rust on the shaft.

For updates, see the TDR Forum thread.

If you came here from a link or search engine and wish to look around

Go to the INDEX page

Last Update: December 5, 2000